Fequently Asked Questions

Commonly Asked Questions About Chemical Automation

  • Q.What are the differences between the MiniWarden & PoolWarden?

    A.Both controllers are essentially the same except the PoolWarden has the ability to add a second pool to 1 controller and it has the following advanced programming  features added:

    1. Lock On-Lock Off  If controller is in pH lock out mode, it can be programmed to still add chlorine for specific amounts of time until pH is corrected. That way, some chlorine will still be added by time instead of the ORP set point.

    2. CYA Offset Calibration When looking at ORP data from an outdoor pool with Cyanuric Acid, you can see when the sun rises and sets. When the sun comes up, the ORP drops and when the sun goes down, the ORP rises. This feature allows for automatically adjusting the ORP so that it will be easier to maintain a more consistent chlorine PPM residual.

    3. Energy Management The PoolWarden can control a heater or heat pump and maintain 2 different temperature settings based on time.

    4. Auxiliary Relays The PoolWarden has 2-4 relays you can customize for different functions such as heater or backup sanitizer.

  • Q.What can I do if my total alkalinity goes down?

    A.There are a few things you can do to keep your alkalinity from dropping.

    Dilute your acid 4 to 1, 4 parts water to 1 parts acid. Always add acid to water when filling your container.
    Shorten feed ON times for acid. You may also need to shorten OFF times if you have difficulty lowering pH.

  • Q.My total alkalinity is too high, how can I bring it down without dumping acid in the pool?

    A.With chemical automation, this is fairly easy but it may take 1-2 weeks depending on how much you need to lower it.

    Change your pH set point in the controller to 7.2 – 7.3. Since alkalinity and pH effect each other, keeping your pH down cause your total alkalinity to slowly come down as well. Check every 2-3 days until the desired alkalinity is reached. If you still have problems with your alkalinity creeping up, try using 7.4 as your pH set point.
    Q. My total alkalinity is too low, how can I increase it and keep it from dropping?

    A. Change your pH set point in the controller to 7.7 to 7.8 and keep it there for 1 – 2 weeks. If you have difficulty keeping your alkalinity from dropping, maintain the pH

  • Q.The controller keeps feeding chlorine but my chlorine level stays low.

    A.Here are the most common reasons this happens.

    The chlorine and acid pumps are plugged into the wrong relays and need to be switched.
    The chlorine injector is clogged, clean & replace. On a weekly basis, disable feed pumps or shut off controller and switch acid and chlorine lines at the injectors to prevent this from happening.
    The chlorine pump is not sized properly to the pool.
    The chlorine pump is turned off.
    The chlorine drum or feeder is empty.
    Insufficient ON time set on relay.
    Chlorine relay OVERFEED timer is set too low.
    For peristaltic pumps check tube and roller assemblies.
    For diaphragm pumps make sure pump is primed and diaphragm is in good condition.
    Q. The pH keeps rising even though the controller is feeding acid.

    A. Items to check.

    Verify that your chlorine and acid pumps are plugged into the proper relays.
    Is there acid in container acid pump feeds from?
    Are chlorine and acid pumps drawing from the proper supply containers?
    For peristaltic pumps check tube and roller assemblies.
    For diaphragm pumps make sure pump is primed and diaphragm is in good condition.

  • Q.The controller readings are not close to what my test kit says.

    A.There are several reasons you can experience this.

    Controller needs to be calibrated.
    Controller is over-calibrated, clear calibrations and start over.
    The pH test is off due to high chlorine or copper levels.
    Chlorine test reads clear due to high level of chlorine in the water.
    Dirty sensor – Remove and cleanse in solution of water and Dawn dish washing soap & gently clean with soft toothbrush if necessary.
    Bad sensor – Replace
    Verify that sensor card is securely inserted into connector on front board (PoolWarden) or back board (MiniWarden)
    Verify sensor leads are securely fastened with proper polarity. Clear wire is +, black wire is –
    Verify sensor leads are connected to proper sensors. Red = ORP, Blue = pH
    Use supplied test strip if you still have problems.

  • Q.Controller is not registering flow.

    A.Circulation pump is turned off
    Flow cell valve(s) shut off
    Flow cell filter screen is dirty
    Flow magnet is missing
    Wrong flow switch activated in software
    Flow switch installed in wrong terminals, For a Dual PoolWarden, use flow inputs 1 & 3
    If you still have no flow, turn flow sensor cap 1/4 turn.